When I first designed the Japanese foundation paper piecing quilt blocks, Hinamatsuri, Kokeshi, Tsuru, and Kimono, it was purely out of a desire to honour an important time my family’s life and our time in Japan. We did not live the stereotypical “expat life” that many people might imagine of living in a foreigner-dominant area and accessing as many English options as possible. We were in the suburbs, my husband worked in a Japanese government institute, our children went to the local Japanese preschool, we went to a Japanese church. It was very immersive. And as such, our time left a lasting impact on us, especially my children and their self-identity and some particular ways of daily living.
But.
Since the patterns were first released, I slowly learned about racism and cultural appropriation and other social justice issues that relate to race and culture. Yet in my white fragility, I told myself that it was “Not me”. I didn’t do those things. No Japanese person has ever raised an issue, only a love for the work! And I’ll be honest – they sell well, so there’s that too. It’s not an issue.
Oof, Alyce! Check. Your. Self.
And yet despite those attempts to lie to myself, my discomfort has only grown stronger and stronger. As I reassessed my business direction and values late last year, I realised I had to take some action to be able to continue forward with integrity, and I started to slowly work out how to do so.
It was the recent racial attacks on Asian women in the US, and realising that the fetishizing and objectifying of Asian culture is a real, dangerous issue, that it suddenly truly clicked into place:
I am a white woman profiting off Japanese culture and enabling other white people to objectify Japanese culture.
I am so sorry. I am sorry for taking so long to learn, to take action. I am ashamed that it has taken me so long as I hid behind my white fragility, trying to defend my inaction. I am disgusted that it took the murder of Asian women for this to finally sink in and solidify.
Effective immediately, these four patterns are no longer available. I believe that these four patterns are specifically objectifying Japanese culture, and I will no longer enable this.
Regarding the other patterns that are in a similar vein – Sakura and Kawaii Cupcakes are temporarily unavailable while they are rebranded and renamed. Origami will continue to be available for now, as I believe it is about the general art of paper folding and using the correct, commonly-used name in the art world and beyond, but I am continuing to research and learn and there may be a time when this changes.
I particularly need to acknowledge the work that Emi Ito from @little_kotos_closet is doing to provide education and awareness surrounding the issues facing Japanese and other BIPOC people, especially in the sewing industry. This article Emi wrote was incredibly in depth around the issues of cultural appropriation and appreciation, and informed my actions.
I also need to thank Jenny Gordy from Wiksten for demonstrating what it looks like as a white designer to take responsibility for cultural appropriation. I acknowledge that her actions have guided my own actions today.
UPDATE: It is sad that I already need to make this update, but please note that if you make any comments along the lines of “there is no racism” or “cultural appropriation police” or the like that is maliciously racist or purposefully antagonistic, your comment will be deleted. I am endeavouring to make my space and platform one that is a safe space for BIPOC people, and racist comments will not be tolerated. If you do not share the same views and values as I do on this topic (or any other social injustice issues), you are welcome to unfollow/unsubscribe/etc if you cannot be respectful.
UPDATE 9pm: I greatly appreciate the mostly respectful discussion and conversations that have taken place, but in order to keep this a safe place for BIPOC people, I will now be turning off comments on this blog post as I am not able to continuously moderate this space. If you are a person of Japanese heritage and would like to discuss this further, you are absolutely welcome to contact me via email – I would love to continue the conversation in a one-on-one situation.
Marjorie says
Please ignore the comment from the racist idiot above. I appreciate your actions.
Thank you.
Alyce says
Thank you, I have deleted her comment (and will do so for any similar comments).
Harriet L Warren says
Nice work.
Indeed, we are learning a lot about how to recognize the cultured racism we have been raised. With best intentions, we can make mistakes. Sounds like you have some very savvy and social reflective friends and mentors bringing this to your attention. Thank You! You are a voice others need to hear.
Congrats.
H
Janice Tucker says
What an irresponsible comment you’ve made. You and your ilk are the root of ugly in our society. Ignoring racism doesn’t make it disappear.
Alyce says
Thank you, I have deleted her comment (and will do so for any similar comments).
Samantha says
Barbara, you’re so dramatically off base on so many issues in your comment I’m not going to bother further addressing your hateful irredeemable ignorance, but I hope that Alyce sees this and knows that there are also those of us in the quilting community who appreciate the lengths she’s gone to to be sensitive to these issues.
Thank you, and I hope that others express their gratitude as well.
Alyce says
Thank you, I have deleted her comment (and will do so for any similar comments).
Lee says
If you sensor one person and not another, then I am sorry for your simple minded singleness. You will never be able to see the world as a whole.
Alyce says
This is me unashamedly using my white majority privilege to protect those in the minority who historically have been silenced so that their voices may be heard.
HollyAnne Knight says
Alyce– as always, I’m honored to call you my friend and to be in this industry with you. I think the truest mark of the impact of your time in Japan is to love and honor Japanese culture enough to discontinue these patterns. They are beautiful, and I hope present-you can have grace for the past-you who designed them because I believe you made these from a place of love. And now learning and growth has you discontinuing them from a place of love. That is doing the work. Here’s to learning better and doing better! Big love!
Candee says
I get it as far as the type of quilt blocks you were doing. But I feel like you are being pretty hard on yourself with regards to your “white fragility”. Don’t know if this comment qualifies for deletion. Good luck figuring things out.
Leslie L Nunez says
I cannot see how you can be considered a “racist” because you love Japanese design and fabrics and show them in a positive way. If it weren’t for you and quilters/artists like you, many of us would not know of these wonderful works! If you feel you are profiting” from the Japanese culture then what about those of us…..white people…..who respond to African designs or Australian Aborigine designs and purchase the fabrics and patterns that promote them?
This “woke” society is making life so difficult and if we cannot celebrate and enjoy the art and sciences from other countries and cultures, then we become isolated and xenophobic.
Do what you love. If you feel so bad about loving and promoting Japanese culture then donate some of your time and profits to a local Japanese society…..but please do not deprive the rest of us the joy of your experience in Japan and the resulting art!
HollyAnne Knight says
I’m quite certain that Alyce will find gorgeous ways to share her experiences and heart with us by amplifying Japanese voices, etc. Lack of white appropriation only limits our cultural education when we are too limited to find voices from those cultures to inform us.
Sherri says
You obviously didn’t read the article in the post by Emi Ito.
Alyce says
This is something I’ve had to learn about myself – there is a difference between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation. Appropriation is when there is power and profit involved. So in this particular case, profit. It is not Japanese artists that are profiting from this, it is a white Australian profiting from their culture. Cultural appreciation is supporting BIPOC artists and makers and designers with our money and our making, i.e. using fabric designed by Aboriginal artists in our quilts.
I highly recommend you read the article I linked to as it explains it much more clearly: https://ysolda.com/blogs/journal/an-open-letter-to-white-makers-and-designers
Jennifer says
Leslie, I think what you said and how you said it was exactly what I was thinking! I love Japanese art. I have for many years. I’m so glad I bought these patterns!
Alyce, I believe you are a fantastic artist/ designer/ teacher. If you delete my comment for being racists, I’d like to say that I respect your voice and opinion.
Blessings, Jen
Alyce says
I’m glad you share an appreciation for Japanese culture. That isn’t racist! It’s the malicious and purposefully antagonistic comments I am deleting, not the questions and ponderings.
Linda says
I agree.
Sherri says
Thank you for your beautiful, thoughtful post. I appreciate your honesty and the actions you’ve taken. I’ve made stupid comments about culturally inappropriate fabric in the past, and I deeply regret what I said. You are a leader and have provided a great example of what to do when you make a mistake.
Anne Burden says
Good for you. You are recognizing your white privilege. You are fixing the things you feel are wrong. You are making change and going forward.
P seager says
Your post was courageous.
Donna says
I’m sure I’ll be deleted as well, but I lived in Hawaii also. Japanese inspired or Chines inspired quilts are not rascist nor is it some evil cultural appropriation. It is in fact what you intended, paying homage to beauty. There are always two sides to every issue and from my experience, just as many Asians appreciate the homage as those who are unwilling to share their culure. It is sad that you can not entertain any opinion other than your own from your followers but that is entirely your right. I know many people who agree with you, close friends, but they acknowledge and encourage dissenting opinions. However, this is your blog and you absolutely have the right to dismiss me.
Alyce says
Previous comments were maliciously racist, that’s the line I am drawing. I too once thought that the handful of voices I heard was enough, but it isn’t just their voices I need to listen to, it’s the wider BIPOC community and the long history of racism and aggression and violence.
Mary Eggleston says
Alyce, I would like to thank you, THANK YOU, for opening my eyes to something I was not aware of. By your being vulnerable with your words of something so unjust, you are educating me and others who didn’t even think of the patterns as a huge offense to those who are being objectified. I consider you very brave and honor your wishes to not use those patterns.
Alyce says
It is that objectifying aspect of things that really shocked me – it is so incredibly dangerous!
GRETCHEN says
If you sensor one person and not another, then I am sorry for your simple minded singleness. You will never be able to see the world as a whole.
Alyce says
This is me unashamedly using my white majority privilege to protect those in the minority who historically have been silenced so that their voices may be heard.
Bobby Bryce says
Thank you for your courage and your action. They speak volumes.
Anita says
Hi, Alyce.
You learned something new and you’ve adjusted your line to reflect that new learning. That is showing great integrity and evolved thinking/reflection. Thank you for your example!
I read Emi Ito’s article. She raises some very good points, and I appreciate her sharing about the meaning that certain cultural items have for her. I also lived in Japan, and my family has a deep connection to the country. My daughter was born there an even has a Japanese name – it’s part of her origin story! But I do think that what you are doing is to set a great example for us all. We do need to be more aware of how we talk about and are inspired by aspects of different cultures. And these conversations are so important to bringing about more understanding, bridging divides and healing past hurts. So, I commend you!
But I still LOVE the patterns, and I have planned a quilt using the patterns you discontinued. It will include/piece together lovingly my child’s infant clothing that she wore while growing up in Japan her first year and a half – including one of the tiny, white hadagi that my baby wore while in the Japanese maternity hospital. I am not Japanese, but having children in another country binds one to the culture in a deeply personal way. Your pattern will be part of that story. I just want you to know that. But I will call it a hadagi and not a kimono, so that it is clear. I have the quilt mapped out in my mind – I just need time to make it!
Thank you, again, for sharing what you’ve learned and for reminding us that we all need to do better.
Alyce says
Thank you for sharing your experiences – it is a hard line to walk for those of us with such deep, personal ties to another culture like we do. I’m glad to hear that you too have been doing the thinking and learning!
Lorraine M says
Well I for one hope that Japanese quilt designers will come out with patterns that depict their culture so they can profit from it. The same goes for all the other indigenous peoples on this planet. What white people will do, I have no idea but it will be worth looking forward to.
Thank you, Alice for taking this step and I am so glad you did because it has raised an awareness that I did not give very much thought. It did cross my mind though, that when I see Aboriginal art work as quilting fabric and for that matter, New Zealand Maori designs, that this art was created and paid to the respective people, but I doubt it. I personally, had some issues with some machine embroidery designs that I knew had crossed the line. What I had seen as art was not what the indigenous people saw, to them some images are sacred and should be treated as such. We have so much to learn and I do hope the silent voices are able to speak up and enlighten us.
Alyce says
Hear hear! And oh yes, fabric is something you have to be really diligent with checking the artist/company to make sure it is legitimate. There has been a lot of problems with that here in Australia too, particularly with what Spotlight sells. Not to mention all the other instances of appropriation of Aboriginal designs in other art industries!
Lori says
Years ago, and far away, I purchased a Christmas decoration from a young boy who attended a school for special needs children. It was a large, wooden snowman, hand-carved, and a design original to the children who had worked so hard to raise money and awareness for their school. I still have it, and it still brings me great joy every single year. But, not long after I bought it, I was in a local artisan’s shop and saw something eerily similar to the snowman I’d purchased from those precious children. The proprietor was bragging that he had seen the children’s snowmen, copied their design, and was able to make his “own” snowmen for less money, sell them a bit cheaper than could the children, and realize a handsome profit in the process. I took the appropriate steps (that my privilege allowed) to ensure the children’s design was safeguarded, and I never went into that shop again. Nor did I feel any shame in letting others know about the situation.
This is not exactly the same thing you’re talking about, Alyce, but it is similar. Unfortunately, we live in a world where things like honesty, courage, humility, respect, and compassion are all too often considered four-letter words. While I agree, in theory, with Gretchen’s sentiment that you cannot censor one without censoring the other, I must wholeheartedly applaud your decision to take the stand that you have.
You clearly feel that you wronged someone, and you are doing what you can to make it right going forward. Kudos to you!! The world would be a much better place if we were all so brave.
Alyce says
That is so heartbreaking, and far too common an occurrence. And for too long, I would call out others for that, while not recognising my own errors! But not anymore.
Janet Watanabe-Johnson says
I am a 60yr old Japanese women. I guess I never saw the patterns you speak of. I have seen a pattern for a quilt with little kimonos and one with little Japanese girls. Not sure if those are your patterns or someone else’s. If this is what your talking about I don’t find it offensive at all. I thought they were really cute and reminded me of my time in Japan. I now wish I had bought these patterns before you discontinued them.
Alyce says
Thank you Janet, I appreciate it. But is not my place to “speak for” Japanese culture in this way, and instead to direct people to support Japanese makers and artists and designers.
Carol says
I love Japanese culture and find their art and particularly their sewing and quilting skills brilliant and to be envied. I purchased the kokeshi doll pattern because a Japanese friend of mine gave me some kokeshi dolls. I understand white privilege, cultural appropriation and racism. At the same time, I’m confused about the line between that and cultural appreciation (including historical designs, fabric and so on.) FOr sure these are difficult conversations….and it is good that there is a place to have these conversations and ask questions. Please forgive my ignorance but I don’t understand it well enough. I need to figure this out because I use fabrics, patterns and designs from so many countries and cultures. Japanese fabrics and prints are my favourite.
Nevertheless, I understand what you are doing and applaud you for making the changes you feel necessary.
Alyce says
The article that I linked to is really well-written and covers a lot of this appreciation vs appropriation: https://ysolda.com/blogs/journal/an-open-letter-to-white-makers-and-designers
Basically, a good rule of thumb to stick with is that if you are buying fabrics, patterns and designs that are from designers and artists of that heritage, you’re good to go. If you are buying these as “inspired by” products by those who do not have that heritage, then we should stop. For example, buying fabric with African or Indigenous Australian designs on them, it should have a clear providence that these designs are by African or Indigenous artists and THEY are the ones who profit from the sale. Or in this case, if it is a Japanese designer who has created a quilt block design that represents their cultural identity like a kimono, then buy that. But not from a white Australian lady 😉
Ray Goldberg says
It is brave of you to address this so honestly and publicly. I often find it difficult to distinguish “cultural appropriation” from “incorporating influences of other art.” I admire your soul-searching, and at this time, it is no doubt better to err in this direction.
Bobbie Mowery says
Alyce, I love your designs and realize this decision comes from your heart. Be strong and know there are many of your friends and followers who are with you and offer their support.
Kathy G. says
Alice, Thank you for your honesty and consideration of another culture and appropriation of their culture without giving them the credit. You have taken a wonderfully responsible approach to the situation and rectified it. We are all, as Christians taught to be ” Called and Accountable”. It is my opinion that even all of us as human beings should strive to be “Accountable” for our own actions and to rectify situations where we feel we caused an injustice. I applaud You! Thank you for sharing your wisdom and accountability in this situation!
mary says
so if i check out a book on Japanese quilts at the library because i would like to make one,
is that now a bad thing?
when did copying a style become disrespectful?
Alyce says
It’s not the inspiration that is disrespectful, it’s the profiting from a cultural identity when it is one that is not your own (and where people of that culture experience racism and hatred and violence because of their culture) that is problematic.
Judy Forkner says
Thank you for your courageous post. I think many of us are going through the same kind of soul searching.
Melinda says
Thanks for your raw, honest stand. I stand with you.
Linda says
You are a remarkable person. Many of us are trying to learn what can hurt someone of another culture , color , gender and trying to change ourselves. Congratulations. Keep growing!
Chris Walters says
Well done Alyce in grappling with a difficult issue and explaining it so well (with help from other sources as you state). You now have me asking these kinds of questions regarding other art forms.
I am sure some of the music I have written has been influenced by African American spirituals and Jazz idioms. As a musician it is hard not to be influenced by music genres that are heavily present in global culture, that one has been exposed to all of one’s life. Since I am not financially profiting from my music at present I hope it’s not as much of an issue and I certainly have a deep respect for where African American spirituals and jazz come from.
Closer to home is the fact that I have profited from preparing Sudoku puzzles for some newspapers (but mostly from writing crossword puzzles). It is undeniable that Sudoku puzzles were popularised in modern times in Japan (hence the name) however they are a form of the ‘Latin Squares’ devised by Euhler, a Swiss mathematician, in 1783 and sudoku-style puzzles were published in the US in 1970 prior to the Japanese promotion of the puzzle in the 1980s. So I am guessing that writing these puzzles is not a cultural appropriation.
However I think it is important to keep asking these kind of questions and thank you for bringing these thoughts to the fore.
Rhiannon Forster says
This is such an interesting read, I’ve just read Emi’s article too and learnt so much! I feel like my eyes have been opened to an issue I previously didn’t fully understand.
Thank you for bringing this issue to the attention of so many and for acknowledging that it’s ok to change your mind, reflect and grow, always.
You are awesome!! 💕
Beth T. says
I am proud of you for embarking on this journey of examination and public discourse. I know you have received coarse, harsh comments that have been deleted, which is discouraging. It does my heart good to see that there is so much thoughtful discussion about what is right, what is appreciation, what does it mean to pay homage? People are at different places on the path to understand the harm that has been done by those in positions of privilege. I still marvel that I went through school in a very diverse class and did not notice that the books we read featured solely people who looked like me. I simply took it for granted, while I was surrounded by classmates from all around the world, some of who were refugees. That makes me ashamed of myself, and of my teachers. Posts like yours will open eyes and hearts. Thank you.
Alyce says
Oh yes, I know what you mean! Ashamedly it took seeing how my kids were not represented in the simple things at Japanese preschool with the little things like a choice of coloured paper other than black to create paper collage self-portraits to realise how it’s those little things that make a huge difference to people of colour. Or how the recent release of the Roger & Hammerstein’s Cinderella on Disney+ allowed many people of colour to share just how amazing it was for them to see themselves when it first came out way back when!
Jen Keifer says
Alyce, thank you for making this necessary choice publicly and not in secret — and in so doing, modeling for us how to walk this journey with humility and courage, while simultaneously educating your followers, and centering BIPOC voices. Well done, my friend. You are a beautiful soul. I am listening and learning with you.